If you're tired of scraping your belly on every rock or stump you cross, it's probably time to look into beefier Can Am Defender A arms for your machine. Let's be honest, the Defender is a beast of a workhorse, but the factory suspension is designed more for a smooth ride on a gravel path than it is for tackling the gnarly terrain most of us actually find ourselves in. Whether you're using yours for checking fences on a rocky pasture or you're trying to navigate a mud hole that looks more like a small lake, your A-arms are the frontline of your suspension. If they aren't up to the task, you're going to have a bad time.
Stock A-arms are generally made from thinner tubing, which is fine for light-duty stuff, but they tend to bend the moment you find a hidden stump in the tall grass. Once you've got a slight tweak in one of those arms, your alignment goes out the window, your tires start wearing unevenly, and the whole machine just feels "off." Replacing them with high-clearance or heavy-duty aftermarket versions isn't just about looks—it's about making sure your rig can actually handle the abuse you're putting it through.
Why High Clearance is a Game Changer
The most popular upgrade you'll see people talking about is high-clearance Can Am Defender A arms. If you look at your stock arms, they're pretty much straight across. This means the lowest point of your machine (besides the tires) is that bottom bar of the suspension. High-clearance arms have a distinct "arch" or "bend" in the design. This simple change in geometry tucks the arm up higher, giving you several inches of extra ground clearance without needing a massive lift kit that might stress your CV axles.
Think about it this way: if you're driving through a rutted-out trail, those arched arms stay above the middle hump while your tires stay in the ruts. It prevents that "anchor" effect where your suspension catches on something and brings you to a dead stop. It's one of those modifications where you don't realize how much you needed it until you're suddenly clearing obstacles that used to make you cringe.
Getting a Little More Room with Forward Offsets
Another thing to consider when shopping for Can Am Defender A arms is the "offset." A lot of aftermarket sets offer a 1.5-inch or 2-inch forward offset. This basically nudges your front wheels forward just a hair. Why would you want that? Well, it mainly helps with tire clearance. If you want to run bigger tires—say 30s or 32s—without them rubbing against the wheel well every time you turn the steering wheel, that forward offset is your best friend.
Moving the wheels forward also stretches out the wheelbase just a tiny bit, which can make the machine feel a little more stable when you're climbing steep hills. It's a subtle change, but combined with the high-clearance arch, it completely transforms how the Defender carries itself. Plus, let's be real, a Defender with a slightly wider, forward stance and bigger tires looks significantly more aggressive.
Materials and Durability
When you're looking at different brands, you'll see a lot of talk about "DOM tubing" and "Chromoly." Without getting too bogged down in the engineering weeds, basically, you want something that can take a hit. Most high-quality aftermarket Can Am Defender A arms use 1.25-inch or larger diameter tubing with a thicker wall than the factory stuff.
Chromoly is usually the gold standard if you're a real "send it" type of driver because it's incredibly strong without being excessively heavy. However, for most of us who use our Defenders for a mix of work and weekend trail riding, heavy-duty DOM steel is more than enough. It's way tougher than the thin-walled stuff that comes from the factory, and it can usually take a direct whack from a rock without folding like a piece of tin foil.
Don't Forget the Bushings
One thing people often overlook when they're swapping out their A-arms is the bushings. If you're going through the trouble of pulling your suspension apart, please do yourself a favor and don't put those old, worn-out rubber bushings back in. Most high-end Can Am Defender A arms will either come with or recommend upgrading to UHMW or Delrin bushings.
Factory bushings are often made of a softer material that wears out quickly, especially if you ride in mud or sand. Once they get "sloppy," your A-arms will start to jiggle, leading to that annoying clicking or popping sound every time you hit a bump. UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) polyethylene is basically indestructible. It's self-lubricating, it doesn't hold onto grit, and it will likely outlast the machine itself. It makes the steering feel much tighter and more responsive, which is a nice bonus.
The Installation Reality Check
Is installing new Can Am Defender A arms a "driveway project"? Yeah, definitely, but it helps if you have a little bit of patience and a decent set of tools. You're going to need a good jack, some jack stands (don't trust the jack alone!), and likely a ball joint press if you aren't buying arms that come with the ball joints already installed.
One of the biggest headaches people run into is getting the old pivot bolts out. If you live in an area where they salt the roads or you spend a lot of time in the mud, those bolts can get seized inside the sleeves. A little bit of penetrating oil and maybe a bit of "persuasion" with a mallet is usually required.
Once you get the new ones on, you'll also need to check your toe-in and toe-out. Changing the geometry of the suspension can slightly mess with your alignment. It's not hard to fix—usually just a couple of turns on the tie rods—but if you skip this step, you'll find your machine pulling to one side or chewing up your tires faster than a lawnmower.
Maintenance Tips for Longevity
Once you've got your shiny new Can Am Defender A arms installed, you want to keep them in good shape. The best thing you can do is keep those pivot points greased. If your new arms have grease zerks, use them! Give them a pump or two after every deep cleaning or every couple of rides. This pushes out any water or silt that managed to find its way in and keeps everything moving smoothly.
Also, keep an eye on your ball joints. Aftermarket A-arms are much stronger than stock, but the ball joints are still a wear item. If you notice your steering getting a little loose or you see the boot is ripped, swap them out before they fail on the trail. There's nothing worse than having a ball joint snap three miles from the trailer and having your wheel fold under the machine.
Is it Worth the Investment?
At the end of the day, upgrading your Can Am Defender A arms is one of those "quality of life" improvements. It's not as flashy as a new soundbar or a light bar that can see into the future, but it makes the machine more capable and more reliable. You'll spend less time worrying about what's under the grass and more time actually enjoying the ride.
If you're still on the fence, just take a look at your current arms. If you see any paint flaking off where the metal has flexed, or if you can see a visible "smile" in the lower tube, the decision has pretty much been made for you. Switching to a high-clearance, heavy-duty set is the kind of upgrade that pays for itself the first time you glide over a rock that would have otherwise ended your day. It's just solid insurance for your rig, and it makes every mile on the trail a whole lot smoother.